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It’s called shucking and it happens a lot especially in the home server home lab community.
It’s called shucking and it happens a lot especially in the home server home lab community.
Probably bandwidth. You download a game or five and then you’re good for a few weeks, whereas if you are streaming media you could run through several gigabytes a day of data per customer in perpetuity.
Obviously, with streaming media there is a continuously refreshing pool of money to cover those costs as compared to games being a one-time purchase, but even with that it would still take quite a while to expend the entire revenue of the purchased game in download expenses and storage overhead.
Jack is minimally lossy. It would change the audio just from the DAC operation and the noise floor but otherwise be pretty good.
My problem with Pop OS is that on the two different machines I’ve installed it on it was very slow.
One of them made sense because it was an older mini Lenovo box, but the second machine I installed it on was a 10th gen Intel core i7 laptop with a Nvidia 2060 and 32 gigs of RAM and a decent one terabyte nvme SSD, and there would still be a massive pause with every click, somewhere between half a second and a second before anything would respond, and when updating or launching Firefox or anything it would always spin for a while and then pop up the sign saying this app is taking too long to respond.
Both of the devices were Lenovo devices, maybe there’s some sort of fundamental incompatibility or missing driver or something but I couldn’t cope with the lagginess of the OS.
Fedora worked swimmingly on both of them, for comparison.
I have taken the A+ certification on two separate occasions and the first time I walked in with no training and aced it. The second time I walked in with no training and I struggled but I still passed.
The CompTIA certifications do get updated on a roughly 3-year cycle, but even so they’re never going to cover everything and even if you can pass the test it doesn’t actually mean that you are a competent IT person.
Yeah I only learned about that in the comments down below. I was just going off what they taught me when I took my network+ what 3 years ago?
Ethernet being reconditioned to Auto negotiate crossover connections was not covered or if it was it was a blurb and I forgot it in the meantime.
I was not aware of this!
You would also need a type A to type B ethernet cable, AKA a crossover cable.
Without that you will need some sort of switch to act as an intermediary between the two devices.
Your powers of deduction are sherlockian and uncanny
I only have four fingers and a thumb but I have three penises and two vaginas and six titties.
I work in it and one of our employees brought a laptop to us that had been completely and thoroughly dismantled with a screwdriver.
She told us that she wanted to remove the hard drive but she couldn’t find it.
It had a flash hard drive that had been detached from the board was sitting next to the Wi-Fi card.
Me and the other it guy just kind of like looked at each other for a minute and then got her a new laptop.
To be fair she was due for an upgrade anyway, but I’ve never had anyone dismantle their soon to be recycled devices.
I bought a Samsung mono laser and printed approximately 400 pages on it before the fusor broke and would cost more than the entire printer did to replace.
I was past the 6-month warranty as well so I chucked it and bought a $10 Brother MFC-7860dw monoprinter from the thrift store that printed in the store.
It turned out that it would jam like the grateful Dead if it printed more than one page though.
Apparently that is a common issue with them and inside of the printer there is a small cork pad that gets twisted down and hits every time it picks up a new sheet of paper and the cork had gotten sticky somehow.
The fix for this incredibly complicated and delicate procedure is to open one side of the printer and take a piece of Scotch tape and cover over that tiny cork pad.
I did that 7 years ago and it still prints perfectly today.
I used to use VLC. I still do, but I used to, too.
I’m in a similar boat, maybe a few steps further down the line than you but not that far.
Something that is really fun is getting a dynamic DNS set up with duckdns, and then put a certificate on it from certbot and then give all of your containers and self-hosted servers am SSL certificate and name using nginx reverse proxy.
If you do that and your Wi-Fi router has a VPN option then you can easily get rid of all of the certificate errors on your locally hosted stuff and navigate directly to them with a name rather than typing in IP addresses.
For me this was daunting but once I actually got it up and running it all made sense.
At $0.13/kwh 100 watts 24/7/365 will cost you $113.88 a year, or roughly $10 a month. Little things add up.
Mine is roughly 300 watts, much of which is from using an old computer as a NAS separate from my server server.
However, I put the whole thing in the basement next to my heat pump water heater which sucks the heat out of the air and puts it into my water, so I am ameliorating the expense by at least recapturing some of the *waste heat.
Since we are talking about cheap ssds, what do you guys think of netac?
I vaguely remember reading that terms of service that violate basic rights are not going to be upheld in court.
I’m not a FUNimation subscriber but I hope that the people who are take Sony to court
Proof?
I read 15 different sites about DNS and not a one of them claimed anything like this. They universally all stated that your network attached devices would use the 1st one unless it didn’t respond and only use the 2nd one if the 1st one did not.
So once again, I ask “Can you send me some more information on this” and not just claim it without any backup information?
I apologize if I am coming off rude, just my BS meter is getting close to the red zone and I would really appreciate some reliable evidence.
If you look around and are informed then you can easily purchase drives that are designed for Nas use. I shucked three eight terabyte Western digital external hard drives and they were all WD reds, but because of the deal they were running they were $60 a piece cheaper inside of the shell than they were outside of the shell.